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Back in 2017, after our first trip to Sea Mountain in California, another destination kept appearing in the same lifestyle travel threads: Hedonism II in Jamaica. The name came up again and again. People either loved it… or really didn’t.
Naturally, we had to see for ourselves.
Hedo stayed on our bucket list for years, and when we finally made it there, we understood immediately why it has such a loyal following.
Long story short: we loved it.
We stayed for 10 days, and even then we felt like we could easily have stayed longer. Hedo isn’t for everyone, so it’s helpful to know our preferences going in. We enjoy nature, freedom, and spaces where people can relax into themselves without judgment.
For us, the magic of Hedo comes down to three things:
• The gorgeous nude beach
• The anything-goes pool energy
• The ridiculously yummy Jamaican food
And maybe most importantly… the feeling of being completely, unapologetically alive.
Getting to Hedonism II (The Journey to Negril)
Reaching Hedo requires a little effort, especially if you’re flying from the West Coast. There are no direct flights from California to Sangster International Airport, so we took two flights before finally landing in Montego Bay. After clearing customs, we headed straight to the Holiday Services desk to check in for our pre-booked transportation.
From the airport, you have two options:
Shuttle Transfer
• About 90 minutes depending on traffic
• Scenic drive along the coast
Helicopter Transfer
• Around 20 minutes
• Much more expensive, but unforgettable
We chose the shuttle.
Not everyone else on the bus will necessarily be going to Hedo, but the driver will chuckle and know you’re headed to “the Zoo.” The drive itself is part of the adventure. Jamaican roads have their own rhythm – Lots of honking, creative overtaking, and impressive pothole avoidance. It looks wild at first but don’t worry, it’ll work out just fine. On our most recent trip, we could see damage left behind by Hurricane Melissa along the drive. It was a sobering reminder of how powerful nature can be.
The Resort Layout
Hedonism II is divided into two main pool and beach sections:
Prude Side
Clothing optional and generally quieter.
Nude Side
Clothing not optional. In other words, nude required.
If you linger wrapped in a towel for too long, security will gently remind you to let it go. For us, that rule is part of the charm. Being naked outdoors quickly shifts your mindset. It feels surprisingly natural, almost primal.
The entertainment team hosts pool games on both sides throughout the day, but the more popular crowd almost always gathers on the nude side. The energy there is playful and social, and it doesn’t take long before conversations, laughter, and floating cocktails turn the pool into the unofficial living room of the resort.
This trip we stayed in a Garden View Classic Room on the prude side. It’s one of the most affordable room categories and perfectly comfortable for what we needed. It’s important to note that there are visible renovation efforts going on, and the resort is not the most posh. As long as you expect that going in, then the Hedo charm really comes through.
One amusing detail: every room includes a ceiling mirror, which feels very on-brand for Hedo.
Beyond the rooms, the resort has a surprising number of amenities, including a well-equipped gym, tennis courts, multiple pool areas, a lively piano bar, a weed dispensary, and even a sexy little secret garden tucked away for couples and sexy friends to explore.
The Food (Better Than Expected)
Food might not be the first thing people associate with Hedo, but it deserves attention. The buffet quickly became our favorite spot. While the American-style dishes were fairly average, the traditional Jamaican food was fantastic.
Favorites included:
• ackee and saltfish
• goat curry
• oxtail stew
• jerk chicken
On Friday evenings, they put out a yummy buffet gala with fire-grilled Jamaican lobster, seafood stew, tempura, and other specialties. They had a special menu with different seafood options on Christmas Day as well.
Another obsession quickly formed thanks to the coffee bar. Lay fell completely in love with Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee, which the resort serves until 10 PM. After our first trip, he started ordering Blue Mountain coffee at home and now drinks it almost exclusively.
Also, when you stay up late partying, there’s something so simply addictive about those late-night fried buffet snacks and the AM poolside pizza.
Restaurants Worth Visiting
Even though we loved the buffet, the specialty restaurants are worth experiencing.
Harrysan
Japanese-inspired cuisine and bento boxes. The wait can be long but it’s worth it. The hibachi experience is also fun and entertaining to do at least once during your trip.
Pastafari
Probably our favorite restaurant overall. The lamb dish and Jamaican lobster pasta are excellent. When we dined in, the fire alarm was on full blast, and the workers said that we don’t have to leave and just carried on… We laughed it off but other diners were totally annoyed.
Flame
Located right on the beach with a romantic atmosphere. We sometimes skip it since they don’t offer traditional steaks, but the setting is beautiful.
Confession though: Even after restaurant dinners, we often returned to the buffet for second dinner and dessert before the evening show.
Groups vs. No Groups
Hedo frequently hosts lifestyle groups that take over large portions of the resort. We’ve experienced both styles. One of our previous trips overlapped with the HSB group, and while groups can be fun, they create a very different atmosphere. Groups at Hedo can be very specific as well, so definitely take look at which groups are there before booking! This trip in the last two weeks of December, however, there were no major groups present.
The difference was noticeable. The vibe was more relaxed and had less guided entertainment. There were new people everyday, whereas in a group week, you have the same people for the majority of the week. The energy felt more spontaneous and less structured. More people started to come in as Christmas and New Year’s approached.
The Nude Beach (Our Favorite Place)
The beach is where Hedo truly shines.
Soft sand. Warm Caribbean water. Palm trees providing shade.
And everyone is naked.
At first that might sound intimidating, but something unexpected happens after a few minutes.
It stops feeling unusual.
Without clothing, people become less performative. The usual status symbols disappear. Bodies of every shape and age share the same space.
It feels human in a way that most resorts don’t.
Officially, the beach rules say guests should refrain from sexual activity, but people come to Hedo for fun. Most guests simply use good judgment.
The beach vendors occasionally approach, but otherwise people respect each other’s space.
In the evenings (yes, even at 2AM), we love strolling the beach together under the beautiful stars, feeling the sand beneath our bare feet, and listening to the gentle ocean waves and our own laughter.
For us, this area of the resort felt the most magical.
The Pool Energy
If the beach is peaceful, the nude side pool is where things become more playful.
Music. Drinks. Floating conversations.
The energy ebbs and flows throughout the day, sometimes quiet and sometimes hilariously chaotic depending on the crowd. It’s impossible not to laugh at some point. Anything goes here too, so we may have participated in sexy activities with each other and new friends. 🤭
But what stands out most is the lack of judgment. Everyone is simply there to enjoy themselves.
The pool is closed from 7pm-11pm, and this creates a natural progression for people to get ready for dinner. In the late evening, the hot tub is its own wonderful party vibe.
Kama Sutra Palace
Hedo also offers workshops and events at the Kama Sutra Palace. When we attended in 2023, they hosted tantra demonstrations and relationship workshops for couples. They had a relaxing setup with beds all around.
This year we heard there was a contest where the winner got to shower with the Kama Sutra ladies – which sounds like a pretty legendary prize!
Nightlife & Shows
Every evening, the resort gathers around the stage near the buffet as the energy slowly shifts from beachside relaxation to nighttime celebration.
The nightly routine usually includes:
• live music during dinner
• themed stage shows
• costume contests with audience participation
The entertainment team performs choreographed shows that range from hilarious to surprisingly sexy, and guests often jump on stage to show off their costumes and creativity.
And whenever Winston sings, the entire crowd lights up. He sang for us on Christmas Day!
Just across from the stage area is a delightful outdoor courtyard, where dance parties sometimes spill out under the evening sky. It sits right in front of the piano bar, which becomes a lively gathering place at night. The piano bar is a favorite for karaoke lovers, and it’s not unusual to see a crowd cheering someone on while cocktails flow and strangers quickly become friends.
Yes, the crowd at Hedo tends to skew older.
But honestly, that’s part of the charm.
There’s something deeply pleasurable about seeing all kinds of people laughing, loving, and enjoying life together, regardless of their age or even their disabilities. Being part of these evening moments always gives me the same familiar feeling:
This is what life is about.
The Playroom
Later in the evening, another unique space opens within the resort: the playroom.
Unlike many lifestyle resorts where play spaces are enclosed indoors, Hedo’s playroom has a distinctive atmosphere. It’s open to the outdoor sky, allowing the warm Caribbean air and night sounds to drift through the space.
The playroom is couples only, creating a respectful environment where people can explore comfortably with their partners.
Even for guests who simply wander through out of curiosity, it’s an interesting part of the resort’s culture. The open-air design gives the space a relaxed, almost surreal feeling, very different from the typical dark indoor playrooms found elsewhere. It’s another example of how Hedo blends its playful energy with the natural beauty of its surroundings. This is one of our favorite playrooms ever!
Why Hedo Feels Different
It’s difficult to describe what makes Hedo special until you experience it. You can party your heart out or be as chill as you desire! We enjoy pacing ourselves throughout our trip. Every time we leave Hedonism II, we try to explain to friends what makes the experience so special. It’s easy to assume the draw is simply the freedom or the lifestyle aspect. But for us, it’s something deeper. There’s a moment that seems to happen on every trip. We’re lying on loungers under the shade trees by the beach, the Caribbean water sparkling in front of us, music drifting softly from somewhere near the pool. The warm air moves through the palms, and for a little while the outside world feels very far away. Sure, to some, this is just the equivalent of ‘doing nothing.’ If this ‘nothing’ feels like loving and peaceful freedom with one another, then we’re totally here for it.
Why We Keep Coming Back
Hedo is not for everyone.
But if you value:
• body positivity
• sexual openness
• freedom from social pressure
• connection with nature
• meeting adventurous people
Then you may find it surprisingly meaningful.
Without phones, schedules, or the usual layers of social expectation, life becomes surprisingly simple.
The evening sounds of tree frogs.
The delicious whiff of home cooking.
The person right next to you.
And in those quiet moments, we often feel the same sense of bliss that keeps bringing us back: a feeling of being deeply connected to nature, to each other, and to the present moment.
Hedo might be famous for its wild reputation, but the thing we remember most is much simpler.
Romance.
Natural Freedom.
And the reminder that sometimes life is best when you let go of a few worries and simply enjoy being alive. 🌴
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